The people


This is the guy that carried my backpack.
He's not recommendable for packs above 20 kilograms, in that case I suggest you buy an ass instead!


Anders and Lui (right),
whom I met after departing the Aeroflot machine in New Delhi international airport.
Two days after departing from Darcha I ran into them again; they were doing the same trek as I was.
They were in extremely good shape so it wasn't easy to keep up with them!


Two Danish girls
 who trekked with the rest of us from Darcha to Lamayuru.

Great guides!

If you want to go trekking in Zanskar-Ladakh or any area around here, I'd recommend you to try to contact
some of the local people to arrange the practicalities for you. I did the trek from Darcha to Padum carrying
everything on my own, but the resulting exhaustion is worth avoiding. So support the locals, and let them
give you a great entrance to Zanskari and Ladakhi traditions and cultures.

The two most incredible horsemen in Zanskar,
and me. They are inexhaustible, they will even make sure the Gods are appeaced
as you go forth in the - at times - diabolic landscapes of stones and rubble.

I have their adresses here

Stanzin Nima
Marling village, Lungnak, Zanskar
c/o Zanskar Kaniska Expedition
Zangly Road Bon. no. 136
Leh, Ladakh
Jammu and Kashmir

Sonam Rio,
Jall village, Lungnak, Zanskar
P.O. Padum, Zanskar, 194302
Jammu & Kashmir

They are highly recommended for their excellent skill and good humor in the fine art of horsemanship!

 From the left it is the Chef  (with a big 'C', preparing delicious momo's),
his son and the excellent guide Thukjay Sonam from Tsazar village near Padum, Zanskar.
I think I would have collapsed without their friendliness and assistance, and I have personally
witnessed how professionally they handled their trekking party, showing great compassion towards
the (to everyone else) very annoying personalities of a few of the tourists.

Contact Thukjay and his team through:

Thukjay Sonam
c/o Lobzang Sonam
Lamdon Model School
Shey, Ladakh
Postbox no. 39
Jammu & Kashmir state

The funny guys.
 It's Mongal in front, with his back towards the camera.
They were all very friendly and generous. Dance and sing all night!

This is another recommendable crew. I don't have their adress, but I know people
who trekked with them, so drop me a mail, and I'll forward it!

A beedi is always good, no matter how high you get!